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呼和浩特胎记治疗医院

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内蒙古医科大学附属医院美容整形科内蒙古自治区中蒙医医院激光祛太田痣多少钱In his youth, Chou Wen-chung, the 91-year-old subject of a Composer Portrait at the Columbia University Miller Theater on Thursday, had many strict teachers. One was Edgard Varèse, the temperamental French-born Modernist and godfather of electronic music, who once showed his displeasure by throwing a score of Mr. Chou’s on the floor and ordering him to urinate on it. Then there was Bohuslav Martinu, the Czech symphonist, who reacted to a fugue Mr. Chou had written using Chinese melodic material with a single, withering, “Why?”星期四,91岁的作曲家周文中将成为哥伦比亚大学米勒剧场“作曲家的画像”演出的主题。他年轻时有过很多位严师,其中一位便是埃德加·瓦雷兹(Edgard Varèse),这位喜怒无常的法国现代主义作曲家和电子音乐教父发火时曾把周的乐谱扔在地上,让他自己往上面小便。后来周又师从捷克交响乐作曲家波赫斯拉夫·马尔蒂努(Bohuslav Martinu),周用中国传统旋律写了一首赋格曲,马尔蒂努的反应简单而令人难堪:“为什么?”But the sternest teacher of all was war, which swept over Mr. Chou’s native China in 1937, and which, over the next eight years, forced him to flee from one town to the next and often brought him face to face with death. In Shanghai, he practiced Bach and Mozart on the violin to the sound of artillery fire. Later, he trained his hearing as a university student in Guilin, where he learned to identify the flight path of Japanese warplanes by their sound. During a recent interview in his West Village townhouse, Mr. Chou recounted many harrowing war stories.但是最严厉的老师还要算是1937年席卷中国的战争,它持续了八年之久,周被迫背井离乡,到处迁徙,常常面对死亡。在上海,他在炮火声中用小提琴演奏巴赫和莫扎特。后来他在桂林上大学,听力有了长足进步,可以凭声音就听出日本军用机的飞行路径。最近周在西村的家中接受了访谈,详细回忆了很多悲惨的战争故事。“This is the kind of thing we don’t want to experience,” he said after describing a traumatic escape from Guilin in 1944, moments before Japanese forces entered the city. “But if you do experience it, use that. We have to learn from life.”“这是我们不想去经历的事情,”他描述了1944年赶在日军入城之前逃离桂林的惨痛经历,之后说,“但如果你经历过,就得利用它。我们得从生命中学习。”As Mr. Chou spoke, Varèse frowned down at him from an oil portrait that hung above his desk. In fact, it is in Varèse’s former house where Mr. Chou (his name is pronounced Joe Wen-joong) now lives with his wife, the pianist Yi-an Chang. Its rooms are filled with Chinese antiques and samples of Mr. Chou’s own elegant calligraphy art; a collection of instruments from around the world, including a wall of hanging gongs; and small treasures that once belonged to Varèse. As such, the house is a physical expression of Mr. Chou’s lifelong pursuit of a union of Chinese culture, rooted in serious scholarship, and the architectural rigors of Western music.周说,瓦雷兹的油画肖像就挂在自己的书桌上方,蹙着眉头凝视着他。事实上,周现在同妻子、钢琴家张易安所住的房子原本就属于瓦雷兹。房间里到处都是中国古玩和周自己写的优美书法;还有从世界各地收集的乐器,有一整面墙都挂着锣;还有曾经属于瓦雷兹的小件珍宝。周致力于将基于严肃学术的中国文化与有着建筑般严谨的西方文化融为一体,这栋房子就是他毕生追求的实体化。“I never regarded myself as a Chinese composer,” Mr. Chou said. “I regard myself as a 20th-century composer. I have to reflect my time: That is my responsibility.”“我从来不把自己视为中国作曲家,”周说,“我把自己视为20世纪的作曲家。我必须反映自己的时代:这是我的责任。”Even so, there is a strong Chinese inflection in much of Mr. Chou’s music, even in works for purely Western instruments, like the gorgeous, brooding “The Willows Are New,” for solo piano, or in his elegant string quartets, which at times imitate the sounds of a Chinese zither or that of the bowed two-string erhu. On Thursday night’s program, the Brentano Quartet will perform his String Quartet No. 2 (“Streams”) in a program that also features the New York New Music Ensemble and Talujon. He has also written works for Chinese and Korean instruments, and for a broad spectrum of percussion instruments.尽管如此,周文中的音乐里还是有着强烈的中国调子,就连在只使用西方乐器的曲子中也是如此,譬如美妙而富于沉思气质的钢琴独奏曲《柳色新》;他那些华丽的弦乐四重奏中,不时会模仿一下中国古筝或二胡的声音。星期四晚上的演出中,布兰塔诺四重奏组(Brentano Quartet)将演出他的弦乐四重奏2号(流水),该演出中还有纽约新音乐乐团和塔鲁琼乐团(Talujon)。周还为中国和韩国乐器,以及广泛的一系列打击乐器创作作品。As a child, Mr. Chou was exposed to many different styles of Chinese music, even as he was ing translations of European fairy tales his father took home from his travels. As a toddler, he stumbled on an impromptu party in his home’s servants’ quarters.孩提时代,周便接触了各种不同风格的中国音乐,就连在读父亲从旅途带回家来的中译欧洲童话故事时也要听音乐。学步时,他曾经蹒跚着走入家中佣人临时举行的聚会。“I opened the door, and there was a strong smell of cheap Chinese wine, and they were singing and playing,” he said. “I thought, ‘That is real life.’ From then on, I associated music with pleasure and enjoyment.”“我打开门,闻到一股刺鼻的廉价白酒气味,他们在唱歌,弹琴,”他说。“我想,‘这就是真正的生活。’后来我就一直把音乐同快乐与享受联系在一起。”But Mr. Chou also remembers watching first-rate musicians play for pennies in the streets, because the breakdown of the old social order had all but wiped out traditional patronage of the arts. Preserving and, where necessary, restoring knowledge of those arts — among them classical poetry and calligraphy — would become a vital concern of his after he moved to the ed States in 1949.但是周也记得自己曾经目睹一流音乐家在街头卖艺的情形,旧的社会秩序崩溃了,艺术几乎失去了所有传统的资助。1949年他迁来美国后,最关心的事情就是保存关于这些艺术的知识,如有必要,还需要修复它们。At Columbia University, where he began teaching in 1964, he gave informal seminars on Chinese philosophy and aesthetics to the ever-growing numbers of Chinese composition students. The best known of these are Tan Dun (who, among other distinctions, won an Oscar for his score to the 2000 film “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”); Bright Sheng, recipient of a MacArthur Fellowship in 2001; and Zhou Long, who won the Pulitzer Prize for music in 2011.1964年,他开始在哥伦比亚大学任教,为愈来愈多学习作曲的中国学生举办非正式的中国哲学与美学讲座。其中最著名的学生包括谭盾(他曾获得多项荣誉,更因2000年为电影《卧虎藏龙》配乐而获得奥斯卡奖),以及2001年麦克阿瑟奖学金的获得者盛宗亮和2011年获得普利策音乐奖的周龙。In a phone interview, Mr. Sheng recalled feeling intimidated by Mr. Chou. Coming out of Mao’s Cultural Revolution of the 1960s, he said he and his peers had had little training in the Chinese arts that Mr. Chou insisted they be familiar with.在电话采访中,盛宗亮回忆自己对周文中的敬畏之情。盛经历了20世纪60年代毛泽东的“文化大革命”,他说自己和同学们对中国传统文化知之甚少,而周文中坚持让他们熟悉中国文化。“We would have weekly dinner seminars at his home, or sometimes in a restaurant, where he would discuss these philosophical ideas,” Mr. Sheng said, noting that topics might cover the I Ching’s system of divination and its application to music; percussion rhythms of Chinese opera; or calligraphy and the art of capturing the illusion of motion on paper. “In the beginning, we went out of respect and the lure of food, but in the end, he made a deep impression.”“我们每周都在他的家里举行晚餐会,有时是在饭馆,他会讨论这些哲学思想,”盛说,这些话题包括易经的预言体系与它在音乐中的应用;中国戏曲的打击乐节奏;乃至书法和写意画艺术。“一开始,我们去他家是出于尊重,也是被食物吸引,但是到最后,他给我们留下了深刻印象。”As founder and director of the U.S.-China Arts Exchange at Columbia, Mr. Chou also poured substantial energies — at the expense of his own composing — into bridging the cultural divide between East and West. On that subject, he said, his optimism is waning.周文中是哥伦比亚中美艺术交流中心的创立者和主任,他投入大量精力,不惜牺牲自己的作曲时间,致力于建立东西方文化交流的桥梁。但他说,自己在这个领域的乐观精神在逐渐减退。“I’m very worried about Europe,” he said. “It is very, very late for Europeans to still not be paying attention to non-European cultures.”“我非常担心欧洲,”他说,“欧洲人再不关注非欧洲文化就太晚了。”Then again, Mr. Chou knows the value of patience. Varèse’s verdict that Mr. Chou’s music was fit for toilet paper would not be his last word on the subject. The two worked very closely together for years.但是周文中依然深知保持耐心的重要。瓦雷兹曾经预言周的音乐只适合印在厕纸上,但这并没有成为他的最终结论。后来两人曾经密切合作多年。In 1996, Mr. Chou completed “Clouds,” a landmark work for string quartet that possesses a profoundly autumnal beauty. It represents the fruit of half a century spent studying what Mr. Chou called one of his prime musical influences: clouds. It’s also a testament to the silent encouragement of perhaps his most gentle teacher: his father.1996年,周谱写了《浮云》,这是一部有着重大影响的弦乐四重奏,描绘了深邃的秋日之美。周文中说,“云”是对自己的音乐有重要影响的东西之一,这部作品标志着他半个世纪以来对“云”的研究成果;也明了父亲曾给予他的无言的鼓励,父亲或许是他最温和的一位教师了。He recalled a day in Nanjing when he came home early from middle school. “I went to the garden and lay down in the grass,” he said. “The weather was going to change, and you could see the cloud formations move. I was fascinated. All of a sudden, a shadow came over me, and it was my father: ‘What are you doing? Why are you not studying?’ I could tell from his face he was furious. I had to tell him the truth: ‘I am attracted by the clouds. I want to see how they move.’ ”他回忆,在南京的一天,自己早早从中学放学回来。“我来到花园,躺在草坪上,”他说。“要变天了,你可以看到云的结构发生变化。我被迷住了。突然,一个影子笼罩在我身上,那正是父亲:‘你在干什么,怎么不学习?’他的脸色显然是在生气。我只好告诉他实话:‘我看云看得入迷。我想看它们是怎么移动的。’”Mr. Chou said his father then walked away without saying another word. “He knew I was discovering something, and he did not want to interfere with me. He let me think it out.”周文中说,父亲一句话也没说就走开了。“他知道我发现了什么东西,他不想打搅我,他让我自己去思考。” /201410/337038呼和浩特治疗粉刺的好医院 Luxury is a snob#39;s game, and Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. wants to democratize it.奢侈品是势利者的游戏,但是Michael Kors Holdings Ltd.想把这个游戏变得大众化。#39;Michael and I would find it offensive that someone would be considered beneath owning one of our products,#39; Kors Chief Executive John Idol said in an interview at his office in midtown Manhattan, referring to fashion designer and company founder Michael Kors.Kors首席执行长伊多尔(John Idol)在位于曼哈顿中城的办公室接受采访时称,如果拥有公司产品的消费者被认为低人一等的话,迈克尔和他本人会觉得受到了冒犯。迈克尔指的是时装设计师兼该公司创始人迈克尔#12539;科尔斯(Michael Kors)。Mr. Idol is fending off concerns that the brand has gone too far with its version of luxury populism. Industry insiders say the brand risks committing the cardinal sin of luxury -- overexposure. These days, they say, it#39;s hard to walk down the street of a major city like New York or ride the subway without seeing numerous Kors bags or its oversized watches.伊多尔是在打消外界对于Michael Kors品牌在“轻奢”路线走得太远的担忧。业内人士称,Michael Kors这个品牌正在犯下奢侈品行业大忌,即曝光过度。这些人士说,现在走在纽约等主要城市的大街上或是搭乘地铁时,常会看到许多人提着Michael Kors的手袋或戴着Michael Kors的大号手表。Meanwhile, with Michael Kors products sold in its own 400 retail stores and in 3,700 department and specialty stores world-wide, some Wall Street analysts and investors are increasingly convinced Kors has expanded too fast and is starting to discount more.与此同时,随着Michael Kors产品在全球400个自营零售店以及在3,700家百货店和专卖店销售,一些华尔街的分析人士和投资者越来越确信,Michael Kors扩张速度过快,折扣力度开始变大。Consumers are feeling it too. Erinn Lindberg, a marketing executive from Texas, had been a loyal Kors fan for years but is now less enthusiastic about the brand. #39;These days, everyone has a Michael Kors bag,#39; Ms. Lindberg said on a recent trip to Macy#39;s in Manhattan, where she bought a gold Kate Spade satchel. #39;It#39;s nice to have something different.#39;消费者也开始感受到这一点。得克萨斯的营销主管林德伯格(Erinn Lindberg)多年来都是Kors的忠实粉丝,但现在她对这个品牌已不再那么热衷。林德伯格最近在逛曼哈顿的梅西百货(Macy#39;s)时说,如今每个人都有一个Michael Kors包包。她在梅西百货买了一个Kate Spade金色包包。她表示,拥有与众不同的东西感觉很棒。Mr. Idol dismisses the concerns but remains sober about the company#39;s prospects. #39;I don#39;t live in the belief that we will forever be the single hottest brand in the fashion business,#39; Mr. Idol said. #39;We#39;re not telling anyone that the U.S. ultimately isn#39;t going to slow down from its current pace.#39;伊多尔对这样的担忧不予理会,但他仍对公司前景保持清醒的头脑。伊多尔称,他并不认为Michael Kors将永远是时尚界的最热门品牌。他表示,公司并没有说,增长速度最终不会放慢。In a difficult retail environment, Kors#39;s sales have outpaced competitors by growing by more than 20% in each quarter (excluding newly opened or closed locations) since December 2011, when the company went public. Profits climbed to 2 million for the year ended March 29, from million five years earlier. Michael Kors stock has more than quadrupled from its IPO price, and the company#39;s market value of .7 billion is now higher than either Ralph Lauren Corp. or Tiffany amp; Co.在艰难的零售环境下,Kors的销售额增幅高于竞争对手,自2011年12月上市以来的每个季度增幅均超过20%(不包括新开门店或已关闭的门店)。在截至3月29日的财年,该公司利润增至6.62亿美元,高于五年前的1,300万美元。公司股票较20美元的发行价上涨超过三倍,目前市值达167亿美元,高于Ralph Lauren Corp.和蒂芙尼(Tiffany amp; Co.)。Analysts expect Kors to report strong first-quarter earnings Monday.Kors quickly stole share from rival Coach Inc., a pioneer of affordable luxury. Kors#39;s share of the .4 billion North American premium handbag and accessories market has grown to 18% now from 3% in 2009, according to Barclays. Over that period, Coach#39;s share has fallen to 24% from 35%.Kors很快就从竞争对手、平价奢侈品先锋Coach Inc.那里夺取了一些市场份额。巴克莱(Barclays)的数据显示,Kors如今在规模114亿美元的北美高端手袋和饰品市场占据18%的份额,远高于2009年时的3%。在此期间,Coach的市场份额从35%下滑至24%。Analysts see Coach#39;s decline as a lesson for Kors. They attribute its fall to rapid expansion, particularly into outlet stores, which they say tarnished the brand#39;s high-end image. At their peak in 2013, Coach#39;s outlet sales accounted for as much as 70% of retail sales, according to Paul Lejuez, an analyst with Wells Fargo Securities. Coach says its problems stem from a lack of investment in full-priced stores and too many promotions.分析人士认为,Coach份额的下滑对Kors来说是个教训。他们将Coach的衰落归咎于该品牌的迅速扩张,尤其是进入厂家直销店(outlet stores),他们认为这种做法损害了该品牌的高端形象。Wells Fargo Securities分析师勒居斯(Paul Lejuez)称,在2013年的巅峰时期,厂家直销店的销售额占Coach零售额的70%。Coach称,其问题源于对全价商店投资的缺乏以及促销活动太多。While Coach has more stores and outlets than Kors, it has less exposure to department stores, which tend to be aggressive with discounts. Coach sells its products through about 1,000 North American locations, compared with 2,500 North America stores for Kors. That opens up Kors to more discounting, which can hurt a brand#39;s image.虽然Coach的门店和厂家直销店数量多于Kors,但在商场的铺面较少,而商场的打折力度往往更大。Coach在北美约有1,000处销售网点,Kors有2,500处。这样一来,Kors可能会有更多的打折促销,这可能会损害品牌形象。Kors CEO Mr. Idol says declines in Google searches for Kors is in line with the rest of the market and denies promotional activity has increased. As for over-distribution, #39;we think that#39;s servicing the client where they shop,#39; he said.Kors首席执行长伊多尔称,谷歌搜索频率下降与整体市场状况相符,并否认量促销活动的增加。至于分销点过多的说法,他表示,公司认为那是在客户购物的地方为其提供务。To avoid the pitfalls of brands like Coach, Mr. Idol said he intends to limit outlet sales to roughly a third of total retail sales to ensure that the lower priced outlets don#39;t overshadow the brand#39;s upscale image. The number of department stores meanwhile helps distribute Kors#39; range of products -- including a fledgling men#39;s business that Mr. Idol hopes will one day grow to support several hundred men#39;s retail stores.为避免遭遇与Coach等品牌相同问题,伊多尔称,他有意将厂家直销店的销售额控制在总零售额的三分之一左右,以确保价格较低的厂家直销店不会影响该品牌的高端形象。与此同时,众多经销Kors的商场帮助展示了该品牌的各类产品系列,其中包括一个新推出的男士产品系列,伊多尔希望该系列未来能发展壮大起来并撑起数百间男士产品零售店。 /201408/319475Addressing People称呼1.Use last names with people you do not know:Address people using their title(Mr,Ms,Dr)and their last names。对不认识的人要称呼他们的姓:用他们的头衔(先生、女士、士等)加上他们的姓。2.Always use;Ms;when addressing women:It is important to use;Ms;when addressing a woman.Only use;Mrs;when the woman has asked you to do so!称呼女性的时候通常用“Ms”:称呼女性的时候用“Ms”,这很重要。如果对方要求你称呼“Mrs”那再照办好了。3.Many Americans prefer first names:Americans often prefer using first names,even when dealing with people in very different positions.Americans will generally say,;Call me Tom.;and then expect you to remain on a first name basis。很多人喜欢被叫名字:美国人通常喜欢用他们的名字,即使是和身份非常不同的人打交道。他们通常会说,“叫我Tom”,然后真的希望你用他们的名字来称呼他们(不是客气的哦)。4.Americans prefer informal:In general,Americans prefer informal greetings and using first names or nicknames when speaking with colleagues and acquaintances。美国人不拘小节:通常情况下,美国人喜欢非正式的问候,提到他们的同事或者使用名字或者熟人的时候喜欢用昵称。Public Behavior注意公共场合的行为1.Always shake hands:Americans shake hands when greeting each other.This is true for both men and women.Other forms of greeting such as kissing on the cheeks,etc.,is generally not appreciated。常握手:美国人相互致意的时候喜欢握手,这是男女通用的。其他的比如亲吻脸颊之类的方式是非常不推荐的。2.Look your partner in the eye:Americans look each other in the eyes when they are speaking as a way of showing that they are sincere。看对方的眼睛:美国人想要表达关注的时候会在说话的时候看着对方的眼睛。Introduction:Standard American English Tips标准英语小贴士Speaking English is not only about using proper grammar.To use English effectively,you need to understand the culture in which it is spoken.Here are a number of important tips to remember when speaking English in the ed States。说英语不仅仅要语法正确。想要有效的使用英语,你需要了解语言使用国的文化。如果你在美国说英语,那么下面这些注意事项是你应该了解的。General Points to Remember你需要记住的是:1.Most Americans only speak English:While it is true that more and more Americans speak Spanish,most Americans only speak English.Don#39;t expect them to understand your native language。大部分美国人只说英语:现在越来越多的美国人能说西班牙语是事实,但是大部分的美国人只说英语,所以别指望他们能听懂你的母语。2.Americans have difficulties understanding foreign accents:Many Americans are not used to foreign accents.This requires patience from both of you!美国人理解外国口音有困难:很多美国人不习惯外国口音,所以你们交谈双方都需要有耐心。Conversation Tips交流沟通秘籍1.Speak about location:Americans love to talk about location.When speaking to a stranger,ask them where they are from and then make a connection with that place.For example:;Oh,I have a friend who studied in Los Angeles.He says it#39;s a beautiful place to live.;Most Americans will then willingly talk about their experiences living or visiting that particular city or area。谈论地点:美国人喜欢谈论地点。和陌生人说话的时候,可以问问他们从哪里来然后找到自己跟那个地方的联系。比如可以说:“啊,我有个朋友在洛杉矶学习,他说那地方很漂亮。”这时大部分美国人就会很愿意谈起他们居住或者到过那个特殊的地方或地区的经历。2.Talk about work:Americans commonly ask;What do you do-;.It#39;s not considered impolite(as in some countries)and is a popular topic of discussion between strangers。谈论工作:美国人通常会问“What do you do-”在某些国家会被认为这是不礼貌的,但美国不是的,这只是陌生人之间聊天的一个流行话题。3.Talk about sports:Americans love sports!However,they love American sports.When speaking about football,most Americans understand;American Football;,not soccer。谈论运动:美国人超爱运动!不过,他们喜欢美国的运动。如果说到football,大部分美国人会理解成橄榄球而不是足球。4.Be careful when expressing ideas about race,religion or other sensitive topics:The ed States is a multi-cultural society.Especially in the last few years,Americans are trying very hard to be sensitive to other cultures and ideas.Talking about sensitive topics like religion or beliefs,is often avoided in order to be sure not to offend someone of a different belief system.This is often referred to as being;politically correct;。说到种族、宗教或者其他敏感话题要小心:美国是一个多文化的社会。特别是近几年,美国人对其他文化和观点非常特别的敏感。像宗教或者信仰之类的敏感话题通常都不会在谈话中提及,以免冒犯别人。这就是经常被提到的“政治正确”。5.Don#39;t hold hands:Same sex friends do not usually hold hands or put their arms around each other in public in the ed States。别拉手:在美国,同性朋友们在公共场合不太会手拉手或者挽住对方的胳膊。6.Smoking is Out!!Smoking,even in public places,is strongly disapproved of by most Americans in the modern ed States。吸烟很老土!!在当代的美国,吸烟,尤其是在公共场合吸烟,是非常不被大众接受的行为。 /201310/259539清水河县做眼角除皱手术多少钱

武川县做隆鼻手术多少钱呼和浩特去除眉间纹手术多少钱 呼和浩特祛疤

内蒙古医学院附属医院激光祛痘手术多少钱PARIS巴黎。A PIN dropped.一根大头针掉到了地上。Twenty feet from where the designer Clare Waight Keller was sitting in the offices of Chloé on the Avenue Percier, it slipped from the hands of an assistant as he adjusted the hem of a crisp white popover top, worn by the 16-year-old English model Rosie Tapner, who had the sniffles. You could hear the plink of metal as it struck the painted wood floor.设计师克莱尔·维特·凯勒(Clare Waight Keller)坐在珀西大街的Chloé办公室,这根大头针是从她的一位助理手中滑落的,掉到了离克莱尔20英尺的地方。当时这位助理正在调整16岁的英国模特罗西·塔普纳(Rosie Tapner)身上穿的挺括、宽松的白色上衣的边缘,而这位模特正在抽鼻子。你能听到大头针撞上涂了漆的木质地板时发出的叮铃声。It was proverbially quiet in the Chloé showroom, three days before Ms. Waight Keller#39;s spring runway show here, as critical decisions were being made about the hair and makeup, the order the clothes would be shown, whether the colors and proportions were just right. A steady stream of guests came and went. A plastic box of Haribo gummi candies that had been full the day before was half-empty, but the detail that spoke loudest was the lack of noise.Chloé样品间的安静,人尽皆知;此时距维特·凯勒女士的春装发布会还有3天,她们正在做一些关键性的决定,比如发型和妆容,装展出的顺序,颜色和比例是否合适。客人们来来往往,川流不息。一塑料盒的哈里波橡皮糖前一天还是满的,第二天就半空了;但这里最显著的细节是没有任何噪音。In the year since Ms. Waight Keller, formerly the designer of Pringle of Scotland, became the creative director at Chloé, many visitors have noted the remarkable calmness that radiates from her studio. That, and the fact that roughly 80 percent of the hundreds of employees at the company are women, which is a point of pride at a house that has projected an aura of femininity for 60 years.维特·凯勒之前是苏格兰普林格(Pringle)的设计师,在她就任Chloé的创意总监后的这一年里,很多客人已经注意到了她的工作室散发出来的格外宁静的气氛。该公司的上千名员工中有大概80%是女性,这对于这家60年来散发着女性魅力的品牌来说,是一种骄傲。Guido Palau, the hairstylist, proposed a loosely tied ponytail, sort of half up and half down, with a deep part inspired by Twiggy. Ms. Waight Keller and her team considered whether it looked modern enough, or cool, or sufficiently effortless. They debated, then asked to see another model. Mr. Palau, in mock exasperation, said, “Oh, my God, how many girls are in this room?”发型师吉多·帕劳(Guido Palau)提议扎一个松松的马尾,差不多是一半扎起来,一半垂下来,其实这是受到模特崔姬(Twiggy)的启发。维特·凯勒女士和她的团队在考虑这样够不够现代,够不够酷,够不够随意。她们争论了一会儿,然后要求再看一位模特。帕劳先生假装恼怒地说:“哦,我的天哪,这个房间里到底有多少女孩子啊?”He wasn#39;t being rude. It is a question Ms. Waight Keller has asked herself as she decided how to best approach a label that, for better or worse, has been reduced over the years to terms like ;girly; and ;flirty,; which do not do it justice. It is her job to balance the sweetness with something a little bit cooler and a lot more modern. Though clearly confident, she is prone to questioning her decisions. In moving to Paris, she brought along her husband, an interior architect, and three young children, and so a lot rides on making this a success.他这样问并非无礼。维特·凯勒也问过自己这个问题——在她决定怎样才能最好地经营这个经过多年的发展被简单地定义为“女孩子气”和“充满风情”的品牌的时候(你不好说这种定义是好是坏,但是这么说不够公平)。让这个品牌不仅甜美,而且还有那么一点酷,有更强的现代感,是她的责任。她虽然非常自信,但还是常常对自己的决定没有把握。搬到巴黎的时候,她把丈夫(一位内部建筑师)和三个年幼的孩子也带来了;所以她成功与否关系重大。;Is the proportion right? she asked. ;Do I like the colors? Is it too sweet?;“这个比例合适吗?”她会问自己,“我喜欢这些颜色吗?这个是不是太甜美了?”She was concerned about a white top with frothy sleeves made of a Japanese polyester that in theory should have looked crisp but in fact were beginning to look like the type of collars that keep dogs from scratching themselves.她在为一件日本涤纶做的白色泡泡袖上衣而忧虑,理论上讲它应该看起来挺括,但实际上它看着有点像是防止小抓伤自己的项圈。Ms. Waight Keller, 42, English-born (though she has lived and traveled extensively), is the ideal image of the Chloé customer. She was raised in dresses and the skirts of school uniforms and has spent much of her adult life rebelling by wearing pants. And she is the type of designer who can make leather pants — like the forest-green ones she was wearing in the showroom, with a cool blue cotton shirt — look as comfortable as pajamas. She keeps her head down and walks with her hands in her pockets.维特·凯勒今年42岁,出生在英国(不过她在很多国家居住和旅游过);她是Chloé的顾客的理想形象。她成长的过程中常常穿连衣裙和校的半身裙,长大以后为了表示叛逆,经常穿长裤。她是那种可以把皮裤设计得看起来像舒的睡衣的设计师,就像她在样品间穿的那件深绿色的皮裤,搭配一件酷酷的蓝色棉质衬衣。她经常低着头,走路的时候把手插在口袋里。But with the spring collection, which was shown on Oct. 1 in the Tuileries, Ms. Waight Keller gave herself a challenge by chopping and cropping pieces to unexpected lengths. And she sought to reconnect the label with the more playful elements of its past, including tanks that were styled after basketball jerseys, sequined tuxedo stripes that ended with the point of an arrow, and a floral print that resembled something from Hawaiian surf wear.在10月1日在杜伊勒里宫举办的春装系列发布会上,维特·凯勒做了一次尝试,把很多单品剪切成各种意想不到的长度。她努力想把这个品牌和它曾经有过的比较调皮的元素再次联系起来,包括模仿篮球运动衫设计的紧身背心,底端是箭头形状的金属亮片条纹装饰,以及夏威夷冲浪风格的印花。;You can be too familiar with the look,; Ms. Waight Keller said. ;You have to push forward. It can be a little bit of a trap to be the consumer.;“你可能太熟悉那个样子了,”维特·凯勒说,“你必须得向前推进。对顾客来说,这可能是个小小的策略。”The vision of Gaby Aghion, the Egyptian-born daughter of a cigarette manufacturer who founded Chloé and named it after a friend, was not girly. It was to create feminine clothing with less formality and more freedom than what was being shown in postwar couture. The pioneering Ms. Aghion, who is 91 and still attends Chloé shows when she is able, remains a notorious flirt. But she was more likely to describe her own style as ;simple; and ;classic.;Chloé的创始人盖比·阿格依奥(Gaby Aghion)出生在埃及,父亲是个烟草商;她用一个朋友的名字命名这个品牌,当时她的设想可不是“女孩子气”。她想要不那么正式、比战后的高级装店的装更加自由的女性装。前卫的阿格依奥女士今年91岁,力所能及的时候仍然参加Chloé的发布会,她还是那么充满风情。但是她可能更愿意把自己的风格描述为“简单”、“经典”。Ms. Aghion once said something that Ms. Waight Keller found inspiring: ;I don#39;t explain anything. I lived the life I wanted.;阿格依奥曾经说过一些维特·凯勒认为非常鼓舞人心的话:“我从不做解释。我只是过了我想要的生活。”;In a way, we have such a recent idea of Chloé,; Ms. Waight Keller said, speaking of its growth as a luxury brand, mostly during the decade beginning in 1997, when it was designed with great success by Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, producing hit styles and bags like the Paddington.“从某种意义上讲,Chloé给人的最新印象就是这样的,”维特·凯勒女士这样说;她指的是这个奢侈品牌的发展过程,主要是在1997年之后的10年里,当时的设计师是斯特拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)和菲比·费罗(Phoebe Philo),她们成功地设计出了一些风靡一时的时装和手包,比如帕丁顿(Paddington)手袋。Of course, there was the long association with Karl Lagerfeld, beginning in the #39;60s, but Chloé has mostly been a house where young designers, like Peter O#39;Brien, Guy Paulin and Martine Sitbon, were allowed to flourish on their way to becoming stars. Still, there is the sense that the label, which is owned by Richemont, has lost some traction in recent years, with mixed collections by Paulo Melim Andersson and Hannah MacGibbon, the two previous creative directors.当然,这个品牌长期以来是跟卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)联系在一起的,这种关系始于上世纪60年代,但是Chloé主要还是让年轻设计师们在这里大展身手,成为大师,比如皮特·奥布莱恩(Peter O#39;Brien)、盖依·保林(Guy Paulin)和玛蒂娜·希特恩(Martine Sitbon)。不过,近年来这个品牌(属于历峰集团[Richemont])在之前的两位创意总监保罗·麦林姆·安德森(Paulo Melim Andersson)和汉娜·麦克吉恩(Hannah MacGibbon)的引领下,似乎丧失了部分魅力。;Honestly,” said Daniella Vitale, the chief merchant of Barneys New York, ;I think this past show was the most spot-on I have seen in terms of capturing the spirit of the Chloé girl, which had waned in the years before Clare took over.”“坦白地说,”纽约巴尼斯(Barneys)精品百货公司的采购总监丹尼娜·维塔尔(Daniella Vitale)说,“我觉得这次新发布会最准确地捕捉到了Chloé女孩的精髓,这一点在克莱尔接管之前的那些年里有些衰落了。”Barneys had not carried the Chloé fashion collection since the #39;80s, but when the buzz started, ;we wanted in,; Ms. Vitale said, noting that over the last year the store has expanded its selection to include y-to-wear and accessories, based on its confidence in Ms. Waight Keller.巴尼斯精品百货公司从上世纪80年代开始就不再销售Chloé装系列了,但是在它重现活力的时候,“我们也想加入,”维塔尔女士说;她指出去年这家百货公司扩大了进货范围,包括成衣和配饰,这都是基于对维特·凯勒女士的信心。;She embodies that Chloé spirit herself,; Ms. Vitale said. ;She#39;s nice. And you can really talk to her. She#39;s interested in your opinion, and she#39;s not removed at all.;“她本人就体现了Chloé的精神,”维塔尔女士说。“她很温和。你真的可以跟她深入交谈。她对你的观点很感兴趣,一点都不疏远。”MS. WAIGHT KELLER was not very well known when she was hired at Chloé, but she had impressed the company#39;s chief executive, Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, when she was at Pringle and he ran the Liberty store in London.维特·凯勒女士被Chloé聘用的时候,并不是非常出名,但是公司的首席执行官杰弗瑞·德拉波多那耶(Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye)对她印象很好,那时候她在普林格,而他在伦敦经营自由(Liberty)百货公司。She displayed both creative and managerial maturity, Mr. de la Bourdonnaye said, a combination that is becoming more valuable in fashion as designers are expected to produce more and do more. And she had previously worked at Calvin Klein in New York, where she learned the power of minimalism, and at Gucci during the Tom Ford years, where she learned the importance of meticulous planning. At Gucci, she worked on a team that included Christopher Bailey and Francisco Costa, both of whom have gone on to personify the broader role that designers are taking as brand managers.德拉波多那耶说,她在创意和管理方面都表现得很成熟,这两种才能的结合在时装界越来越有价值,因为公司都希望设计师们能生产得更多,做得更多。她之前在纽约的凯文·克莱恩(Calvin Klein)工作的时候,领会了简约的力量;在汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)做古驰(Gucci)的创意总监期间她在那里工作,明白了谨慎规划的重要性。在古驰的时候,她所在的小组还包括克里斯托弗·贝利(Christopher Bailey)和弗朗西斯科·考斯特(Francisco Costa),这两位设计师后来也承担起了品牌经理的部分职责。In the showroom, there was a life-size mock-up of what the actual runway would look like, with blinding lights to simulate those of a show so Ms. Waight Keller could be certain the colors would exactly the right way.在样品间,有一个实物大小的秀台模型,跟真实的秀台一样,灯光炫目,这样维特·凯勒女士能够准确判断颜色出来的效果是否正好。;Clare is very pragmatic, very determined and she has a very clear vision,; Mr. de la Bourdonnaye said. ;But she also has a soft and pleasurable way of dealing with the team around her.;“克莱尔非常务实,非常坚定,有非常清晰的愿景,”德拉波多那耶先生说。“但是她跟周围的团队打交道时,又很温和,让人舒。”Ms. Aghion had that ability to inspire her designers as well. According to an anecdote in WWD, she was known to address them as ;my little kittens.;阿格依奥女士也有那种鼓舞设计师的能力。根据《女装日报》(WWD)上的一则传说,她称呼设计师们为“我的小猫咪们”。During Paris Fashion Week, there was a sweet moment when Mr. Lagerfeld, who had lost touch with Ms. Aghion after he left Chloé in the #39;90s, was reunited with her at an exhibition covering the history of the label at the Palais de Tokyo.在巴黎时装周期间,在东京宫(Palais de Tokyo)展示该品牌历史的展览上,拉格菲尔德先生与阿格依奥女士再次重逢,这一时刻非常温馨,因为自从上世纪90年代离开Chloé,他跟她就失去了联系。;She#39;s still funny,; he said, after posing for photographs.“她还是很风趣,”在摆好姿势拍照之后他这样说。The exhibition was meant to remind audiences that Chloé is a French label with a history not unlike those of Dior or Saint Laurent, where the news of two new designers this season overshadowed just about everything else happening in Paris. What struck Judith Clark, the art historian who curated the exhibition, was that after founding the label, Ms. Aghion remained so open to the work of others.该展览意在提醒观众,Chloé这个法国品牌的历史,与Dior和Saint Laurent一样悠久而辉煌;这一季关于后两家公司的新任设计师的新闻,盖过了巴黎时装周期间发生的所有其他新闻。本次展览的策展人是艺术历史学家朱迪思·克拉克(Judith Clark);让她感到震撼的是,阿格依奥在创建了这个品牌之后,依然对其他品牌的作品保持包容的态度。;It#39;s not about a cult of personality,; Ms. Clark said.“这不是个人崇拜,”克拉克女士说。 /201409/325805 Where are Chinese tourists going to next? Pop culture may hold some clues, from blockbuster rom-com #39;Finding Mr. Right#39; to U.S. sitcom #39;The Big Bang Theory.#39;中国游客的下一个目的地在哪里呢?从流行文化中你或许能瞥见些许端倪,例如大热的浪漫喜剧电影《北京遇上西雅图》(Finding Mr. Right)、美国情景喜剧《生活大爆炸》(The Big Bang Theory)等等。China is the source of most of the world#39;s tourists as well as its biggest-spending travelers. In 2012 alone, 83 million Chinese went abroad and spent a whopping 2 billion, according to the most recent figures from the ed Nations World Tourism Organization.中国游客不仅数量上是世界第一,出手更是全球最阔绰。据联合国(ed Nations)世界旅业组织(World Tourism Organization)的最新数据,仅2012年一年时间里,中国赴外游客就有8,300万人,总开更是高达1,020亿美元。Now more than ever, popular culture is driving their decision making. Below are a few examples of how TV shows and hit movies are influencing Chinese tourists#39; travel choices.现在,流行文化对人们旅游决策的影响超过以往的任何时候。以下是电视剧、热门电影吸引中国游客的几个典型例子。SEATTLE西雅图Over the past two years, Seattle -- that rainy city in the Pacific Northwest of the U.S. -- has seen a 90% rise in visitor numbers from China, local officials say.当地官员说,过去两年中,美国西北部多雨城市、太平洋沿岸的西雅图所迎接的中国游客数量骤增90%。The reason: the huge popularity of the Chinese romantic comedy #39;Finding Mr. Right,#39; in which a woman from mainland China travels to Seattle to give birth. Directed by Xue Xiaolu and starring Tang Wei, the film has grossed more than million in China since its release last year. (The movie#39;s Chinese title translates literally to #39;Beijing meets Seattle.#39;)理由:叫好又叫座的中国浪漫喜剧片《北京遇上西雅图》讲述了中国大陆一名女子远赴西雅图生子的故事。这部由薛晓璐执导、汤唯主演的电影自去年上映以来在中国狂揽超过8,500万美元票房。The city has attracted so many Chinese tourists that CCTV, China#39;s state broadcaster, sent a journalist to cover the city#39;s New Year#39;s Eve celebrations and a series of stories about the Pacific Northwest region.鉴于西雅图如此受热捧,中国中央电视台还专程派驻了一名记者报道西雅图的新年夜庆典活动以及一系列有关西雅图的故事。LOS ANGELES洛杉矶Los Angeles has long been a favorite destination for Chinese tourists visiting the U.S. but lately, they#39;ve been asking for detours to nearby Pasadena to pay homage to their favorite sitcom, #39;The Big Bang Theory.#39; Fans are requesting visits to places including the campus of California Institute of Technology as well as to a particular Cheesecake Factory outlet, which both figure prominently in the CBS sitcom that Chinese fans stream online.洛杉矶一直是中国赴美游客的最爱,不过最近游客们还主动要求绕到附近的帕萨迪纳去看看,向他们喜爱的哥伦比亚广播公司(CBS)情景喜剧《生活大爆炸》(故事发生地即是帕萨迪纳)致敬。剧迷们要求参观加州理工学院(California Institute of Technology)校园、芝士蛋糕工厂(Cheesecake Factory),这都是剧中人物经常出没的地点。#39;I#39;ve heard of tour guides being demanded by tourists that they go to those places,#39; said Sage Brennan, a Los Angeles-based retail consultant at China Luxury Advisors.China Luxury Advisors驻洛杉矶零售顾问Sage Brennan称,他就曾经听说过有的客人要求导游带他们到这些地方看一看。#39;The show has really taken off with the Chinese, and it has all these crazy repercussions. Brands can capitalize on this,#39; he added.他说,《生活大爆炸》在中国观众中真的很有人缘,反响非常热烈;商业品牌可以利用这一点招徕顾客。Officials said 708,000 travellers from mainland China visited the state in 2012, up from 517,000 the year before.官员们说,2012年洛杉矶接待了70.8万中国大陆游客,大大超出前一年的51.7万人。SOUTH KOREA韩国In the first 11 months of 2013, more than 4 million Chinese tourists visited South Korea, a 53% spike from the previous year due to the country easing visa restrictions to allow for freer travel from China.2013年前11个月,有超过400万名中国人赴韩国游玩,较上年同期增加了53%,原因是韩国放松了签要求、给予中国游客更多旅行自由。But Wolfgang Arlt, of Germany#39;s China Outbound Tourism Research Institute, says the popularity of Korean television series and movies have also influenced travelers. Popular series in China include #39;The Heirs,#39; which featured South Korean heartthrob Lee Minho and last year became a huge hit on Youku, the Chinese equivalent of YouTube.不过,德国研究机构中国出境游研究所(China Outbound Tourism Research Institute)的Wolfgang Arlt说,韩剧、韩国电影的热播也起到了拉拢游客的作用。去年由韩星李敏镐(Lee Minho)主演的热门韩剧《继承者们》(The Heirs)在中国视频网站优酷网(Youku)人气爆棚。MAURITIUS毛里求斯Thailand became a major destination for the Chinese in 2013, thanks in large part to the 2012 box-office hit #39; Lost in Thailand,#39; a buddy-comedy that smashed box office records. The tiny island country of Mauritius hopes it can similar buzz when the movie #39;Five Minutes to Tomorrow#39; is released later this year. A China-Japan co-production, the movie is about identical twin sisters who fall in love with the same man. In the first 10 months of 2013, more than 34,000 Chinese visited the country, an increase of 99% from the previous year. Mauritian tourist authorities hope the movie can spur 100,000 Chinese visitors #39;in the foreseeable future.#39;2013年泰国成了中国观光客眼中的大热旅游地,一定程度上应当感谢2012年的叫座影片《泰囧》(Lost in Thailand),这部“兄弟喜剧”不断冲刷着票房纪录。有了这样的榜样,弹丸岛国毛里求斯希望今年晚些时候上映的中日合拍片《深夜前的五分钟》(Five Minutes to Tomorrow)也能带给它好运。这部影片讲述的是一对同卵双胞胎爱上同一个男人的故事。2013年前10个月,超过3.4万中国游客来到这个国家观光,较上年同期高出99%。毛里求斯旅游业部门希望这部影片在可预见的未来吸引10万中国人到此一游。EUROPE AND THE U.S.欧洲和美国The U.S., U.K., France and Germany remain the most frequented destinations for Chinese who travel to the West, but the sights they flock to within those countries often are unique to Chinese culture. For instance, Karl Marx#39;s birthplace in Trier, Germany, has long been a pilgrimage spot, while a willow tree in Cambridge, England, is a must-visit for bus tourists because of a well-known poem by Xu Zhimo, who studied at the city#39;s famed university in the 1920s.美国、英国、法国和德国仍是中国人西行时最常去的地方。但是,游客们来这些国家时爱去的景点通常与中国有着独特的瓜葛。比如,马克思(Karl Marx)的出生地德国特里尔就一直是中国人的圣地。再比如,英国剑桥的一株柳树也被搭乘巴士游英伦的中国游客们奉为必看之物,因为上世纪20年代诗人徐志曾经在剑桥大学求学并写下了著名诗篇《再别康桥》,诗中就描绘过这株“河畔的金柳”。#39;It#39;s like a parallel universe,#39; said Mr. Brennan in Los Angeles. #39;Pop culture comes up again and again when we do our research. But the Chinese interpretation is always different.#39;前文提到的Brennan说,这就像是一个平行宇宙。在我们做研究的过程中,这种流行文化一再进入我们的视野,但中国人的解读总是和我们不一样。 /201401/273106呼和浩特253医院玻尿酸多少钱乌兰察布市中蒙医院激光去胎记多少钱

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